Tuesday, May 24, 2016

May 22-23: Ganyu and Kachasu

Despite having ample time to do so, I ended up not writing yesterday. There’s really not much to tell. It was a chill day where we just hung around the Oasis and worked on our assignments for the course.

For breakfast, I had about 4 small pieces of potato. For anyone who doesn’t know me that well, I don’t like most breakfast foods. At home, I’ll often end up eating something that other people would never eat for breakfast. So I’m looking forward to going home and having access to more breakfast options. In particular, I’m excited to make myself some French Toast. That’s the newest addition to a growing list of food that I’m planning to eat when I get home. Carrots and hummus were added first, followed by tortellini and chocolate cake (likely acquired from Elgin Street Diner because they have the best chocolate cake I’ve found in Ottawa).

My highlight of the day yesterday was that Marlo let me buy some minutes off her and I got to talk to my family since they were all together for the long May weekend. I’m always sad to miss those sorts of gatherings, so it was nice to check in.

This morning we had a lecture about ganyu, which is a form of labour that’s pretty common in Malawi. It’s a short-term form of labour that’s usually higher-class people employing lower-class people, but the way it’s evolved historically has turned it into quite an exploitative form of labour. We also discussed kachasu, which is distilled alcohol like that which we saw in the informal settlement. Both ganyu and kachasu play pretty compelling roles in the spread of HIV/AIDS, particularly during times of economic hardship and famine. Ganyu, particularly in urban settings, is often associated with transactional sex. Women will go out in search of ganyu, but they will find a man who will offer them money for sex and work or just sex, and they are often in need of the money. A particular challenge is that these women are often not in a position to negotiate for safe sex, so they are vulnerable to contracting HIV/AIDS. The exploitative nature of ganyu also keeps poor people in poverty, which could mean that they may turn to transactional sex to get by, and/or they will be unable to afford condoms. I feel like that’s an oversimplification of ganyu and its link to HIV/AIDS, but it gives you a brief idea of a very complex issue. Kachasu is extremely potent, accessible, and cheap, so it is easy for people to get drunk. Based on its historical roots, it’s mostly manufactured by women and sold to men. Places that sell kachasu often also sell sex, where the proprietor acts as either a prostitute or a pimp. This may be a bit of a simplification, but being drunk also doesn’t lead to safe sexual practices, so HIV/AIDS is also spread through kachasu use.

After the lecture, the group split up in town for lunch. Natalee and I went to get pizza, which was a great choice. My pizza had chicken, mushrooms, green peppers, pineapple, and corn… a pizza that I would never construct in Canada, but that ended up being delicious. Our group had planned to go to “The Swahili Market,” where we had heard you could buy fabric. Unfortunately, Natalee and I didn’t know where the market was, and we didn’t know where people had gone for lunch. So we wandered to Shoprite and used the Airtel wifi to message some people in our group who have data. As we were standing there, a local who often tries to sell things to our group, named Georgie Porgie (that’s how he introduced himself to us…), came over and started talking to us. We explained that our group was at the Swahili market and that we were trying to get there. He said that he was also going to that market and that he’d walk with us. It ended up being closer than we’d thought, probably only a 15 minute walk from Shoprite. On the way, Georgie told us that the President of Malawi is coming to Mzuzu today to open a bank here and a hospital in Nkhata Bay. Of course, when we got to the market, he wanted to sell us things, so we bought a couple of small things from him and said goodbye. It didn’t take us long to find some of our classmates, but they were planning to leave not long after we arrived. Natalee and I are planning to go back and look around some time because we ended up only being at the market for about 15 minutes. There’s a lot of beautiful fabric there, I’m just not sure if I’ll buy any since I’m unsure that I’ll actually wear it. I don’t really wear patterns…

After a quick stop at Shoprite for wifi and water, we headed home. The remainder of the day was spent at The Oasis, doing school work and relaxing. Erin, Aileen, and Sally got home after dark, and we were a bit concerned. But it turned out that they’d waited around to see the President arrive in town! Apparently he’s giving a speech at Mzuzu University tomorrow, and depending on what we’re doing tomorrow (if the weather’s nice, we might go to the beach, if not, we’ll have class and a free afternoon), we’re considering asking Paul if we can go.

I’ve gotten into the habit of buying crappy snack food at Shoprite and eating it. I’m really looking forward to getting home and back to eating normal food.

That’s all for now, folks!

-Jen

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